My vincas are dying (2nd post)

Post your questions here. Be sure to include where you are from (city & state).
Forum rules
You can view the posts to the forum without registering but in order to post a question or reply to a post you must register as a user. Once you register, you can log in and join the discussion or post a question.

To post your question, select the appropriate category and simply click on NEW TOPIC or post a REPLY to an existing topic.

To upload a photo, just click on the "upload attachment" tab below the text box when you are posting a question or a reply.

Remember to include where you live (city & state) in your post, so you will get the best answer for your particular area.

My vincas are dying (2nd post)

Postby Helen Shickel » Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:56 am

In my post on July 17, I forgot to say that I live in Bridgewater, VA. Actually the leaves on my vinca are curling or rolling instead of wilting and then the whole plant dies. Some are dying and others in the same row are okay. Other flowers in the same area are not affected the same way. What could be the cause?
Helen Shickel
 
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2015 12:35 pm

Re: My vincas are dying (2nd post)

Postby lorijones » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:43 pm

Are these the annual vinca (Catharanthus roseus) or the perennial vinca (Vinca minor or Vinca major)? From your posts, it seems like you have these planted directly in the ground and not in pots or window boxes. Is this correct?
Do you notice any spotting on the leaves or yellowing of the leaves in addition to the other symptoms? Are the stems turning black?
This sounds like one of the fungal diseases, perhaps aerial stem blight (Phytophthora). Aerial stem blight is pretty common in both the annual vinca and perennial vinca. It is more common under very moist soil conditions. One of the ways to help prevent the disease is to provide the plants with well-drained soil and avoid excess watering - keep your garden soil on the dry side. Luckily, both annual and perennial vinca are fairly drought tolerant.
Plants that are already infected should be removed - they cannot be cured. Fungicide applications (Bonide Fung-onil or Daconil) may help protect healthy plants when applied according to the label directions.
It is very important to allow the soil to dry out between waterings. This can be difficult if you have an automatic irrigation system - but you should be able to adjust it to come on less frequently.
lorijones
Site Admin
 
Posts: 1646
Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2008 12:30 pm
Location: Fishersville, VA


Return to Annuals, Tropicals, and Houseplants

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron